South America Safari

Arlington, VA

2009-06-09T17:09:00.000-07:00

Warren, PA

2009-06-04T10:16:00.000-07:00

The KLR and I have made it to Warren, PA having retrieved it from Newark Port on June 2nd. Just wanted to enter this into the blog that it was a happy and interesting reunion with the old girl.

Lima, Peru

2009-05-26T12:45:00.000-07:00

We're back at the Flying Dog Backpackers here in Miraflores...my last hostel for...well who knows. I write a quick post to let folks know we made it back to Lima from Puno on a 22 hour bus ride.

After five plus months south of the U.S. I'm about to return home with Robyn. We found a cheap flight for me leaving Lima (same time together on the red eye this evening) to New York where I will be picking up the motorcycle and drive back to Mississippi. From there we will be starting our semi-cross continental U.S. travels this summer with the dogs to Virginia, Colorado, Wisconsin, and then back to Mississippi where I may have to quit retirement and find work...Sears and Clover (the dogs) need to eat after all.

On another note, I find it quite humorous that I'm returning to the states with less than I left...much less. I will post a photo of this in the near future when I return to the states...but to suffice to say I will only be returning with a cheap $10 walmart backpack that I left the U.S. with...though with a few patch jobs here and there. A lesson that less is more.

I wonder if the blog name will have to change once I'm back in north america... It's been fun.

Puno, Peru

2009-05-21T12:47:00.000-07:00

Made it to Puno, Peru after a four hour water collectivo ¨taxi¨ from Isla Amantani on Lake Titicaca where we spent the night at a family homestay (community-based tourism). We sailed there from the Capichica Peninsula where we spent the first night at a family homestay as well in Llachon. Stayed in a cold adobe hut with reed mats as insulation and mattresses on top of adobe beds...seen here we kept each other warm with our sleeping pads, chocolate cookies, and some ipod arrested development.

Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable fresh water lake in the world...the clouds are pretty close and the temps are pretty cool. We have become pretty experienced having spent five hours sailing yesterday from Llachon to Amantani... it usually takes only an hour and a half but the inca wind gods were not in our favor, not to mention our boat had a leak that required constant bailing of water...it was an awesome experience all the same especially with the homestay families (meals included) and the beautiful topography, terraced landscape with volcanic rock everywhere.

We have made a semi-loop of sorts having taken the back roads (and local crammed collectivo minibus) to the peninsula from Juliaca where not many tourists venture.

From the peninsula to the Amantani Island by sail and this water motor boat collectivo which transported ´cuy´ guinnea pig seen in the picture with Robyn under protective netting squealing the way to Puno from Amantani. Three days without showers and dirty clothes we´re enjoying Puno before perhaps Lima directly.

Juliaca, Peru

2009-05-19T08:32:00.000-07:00

Made it out of Cuzco on the night bus to Juliaca just in time to beat the start of a train, bus strike in the Cuzco area which would have made it difficult if impossible to leave. We´re heading down to some community-based tourism action in Llachon along Lake Titicaca for a couple days.

Cuzco, Peru

2009-05-17T17:48:00.000-07:00

Three days of back road buses to Cuzco we crashed in a lovely hostal above Cuzco in San Blas which overlooks the downtown plaza with a great window view.

A couple days relaxing and checking out the museums, cathedrals and plethora of restaurants with great local cuisine. The altitude and hiking back and forth from downtown Cuzco to San Blas prepared us for Machu Picchu.

Then onto Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu for a few days. One can only arrive by walking or by train to Aguas Calientes (we took the train seen in the photo).

From there up to Machu Picchu, a 2 hour hike up leaving at 4am. These two photos taken from atop machu picchu at the guardian house. The peak in the background being the highest part ´waynu picchu´.

This photo depicts the center of machu picchu with the royal courts and the second photo of the burial chambers which Robyn and I experienced.

And of course they had Incan Llamas on hand for the tourists to photo and as Machu Picchu lawnmowers.

Andahualyas, Peru

2009-05-10T17:47:00.000-07:00

Not so many photos of our back roads bus cities from Paracas to Cuzco mainly because we took night buses arriving wee morning hours just to crash for a few hours of sleep, tour the cities quickly, eat, and board another bus. While the buses were unpleasant the fact we were the only tourists in these quaint Andean cities made up for it.

This photo is in the plaza of Andahualyas with the tulip tree and background moto taxis that abound everywhere with their own language of honking.

Paracas, Peru

2009-05-09T08:34:00.000-07:00

Robyn and I departed Lima midday on the 8th arriving in to Paracas early evening. Acommodations and tour arrangements were quite easily settled except for locking ourselves out of the room once doing so. This photo depicts the breaking back into our room through the bathroom window no larger than myself six feet in the air. Our taxi driver and subsequent tour guide the following day was gracious enough to help hold my feet while I went in head first hitting the toilet on the way down.

Early morning the fleet of tourists gathered along the docks to don our life vests and board the speed boats out to the Ballestas Islands (the poor mans gallapagos according to footprint), checking out the spectacular candelabra petroglyph located on the Paracas Reserve on the way.

The islands is a respite for many marine wildlife most of all the birds that encircle the islands everywhere. There will be a video posted below sharing some of this in real time. The picture of the Pelican and Penguin alongside one of the islands together shares the communal environment of the islands. The islands while naturally protected now was a major source of exported guano...highly prized throughout the world in it´s day.

In the afternoon we toured the Paracas Reserve known and named for it´s wind that blows incredibly during August particulary but was also blowing up in the afternoon of our visit. The reserve was full of fossilized marine life as well as much more to share but we´re heading overnight to Andahuaylas and must get ready. We´ll share more of Ayachucho later as well.

Miraflores, Peru

2009-05-07T10:42:00.000-07:00

Robyn is here! She made it (11pm) just hours after I did on the three day bus ride from B.A. It was perfect timing and so great to see one another after 4 1-2 months apart. We are staying at the same flying dog backpackers hostel that I crashed at on the way down by motorcycle. The area is a neighborhood-city connected to Lima along the coast. The first day we took a hike along it and just relaxed both recuperating from our respective journeys.

There is quite a drop off cliff between the city and the coast, a good hike down with morning glory as erosion control...fond memories of kudzu back in the MS Delta. I´m pictured imagining the morning glory taking over everything on the steps to the coast. We also had to stop and photo this poor pathetic looking dolphin...didn´t see any real ones so this will have to do.

So much to share, so many new experiences for Robyn...and Robyn and I together. This was her first time having ceviche´at a great touristy restaurant which we split with a side salad. She also learned quickly of the cheaper ´menu del dia´ restaurants later that evening that I have been frequenting. We are keeping ourselves to a respective $30 a day budget...meals, lodging, transportation...

Onto Paracas and our first bus ride together.

Bulogne, Argentina

2009-05-01T05:18:00.000-07:00

The last Asado! If Jesus had Argentinian disciples for the last dinner it would have been steak, steak, and more steak. I've never had more red meat in such a short period of time thanks to my Argentinian host Gus. Grant you after 4 months of riding and street food, "show me the meat!"

I'm also stockpiling for a three day bus ride to Lima leaving tomorrow afternoon and arriving just hours before Robyn flies in. It'll be an interesting persective looking out the double decker panoramic window at passing motorcyclists instead of being one of ém looking back at all the buses blowing me around the road.

The klr has been packed up with no more an existence than a 2.4 cubic meter box on a boat allows. We will hopefully reconnect in a month's time when I fly to New York early June to pick her up. It's a guessing game shipping ocean freight and I only hope I'm lucky that she'll arrive when I do and in "the pieces" I took her apart.

The Bundschuh's and I met up this past week and enjoyed a last ride together to Tigre, just north of B.A. They are also parting with their Suzuki's here in B.A. A pleasant and appropriate way to farewell this south american motorcycle trek having started it with them on the sailboat from Panama.

I also had a tennis first here in Argentina playing on clay courts...though never successfully managed a slide. Playing made me miss spring tennis back home all the more but I am happy to see that the Cleveland 3.0 Mcintosh-Bear Pen Park league team I played in last year is kicking butt.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

2009-04-06T12:23:00.000-07:00

The klr is in a sort of purgatory here in Buenos Aires. A limbo world between shipping, selling, and parking...and the lingering dream of continuing the ride north. Our future together still remains uncertain at this point after two weeks here and with two more before meeting Robyn in Peru. I am finding Argentine law on temporarily imported vehicles a no mans land for motorcyclists ending their journey here (this could be the case anywhere of course). It is still surprising given the number that trek to and from B.A. each year.

I remind the followers of this blog that this 650cc substitute girlfriend is not even mine. A loan from a good friend with no hesitation on his part about sharing her (I recognize that just doesn't sound right). No hesitation even with knowing that my interest in doing this trip by motorcycle stems simply from a dream. I say a loan but there was never an expectation as to it's return from either one of us, rather a hope. I myself didn't even expect she would make it through mexico, let alone central america or the southern most city in the world...i mean come on I'd never driven a motorcycle before in my life and she had been parked for two plus years at my place! I only got her back to running and obtained my license less than a week before leaving.

And so here we are, the original intention to ride back north subjected to insufficient funds, time, but most of all energy. I apologize for the lack of blogging these past two weeks. I suppose it's only fitting given that I've been in a sort of 'restful' purgatory as well with the end of my own motorcycle diaries, the inevitable return to the states come summer and this blissful Buenos Aires fall weather that one could stay in forever. Much thanks also to my host and new amigo Gus with whom I am crashing. Connections to his Argentine parents now living in the U.S. has provided me free room in their house in the suburbs of B.A. (a fifty cent-one hour bus ride from downtown B.A.) while I figure out motorcycle matters.

Now, there appear to be plenty of web suggestions on the illegal affairs of foreign motorcycles beginning and ending in Argentina. First, parking it for a future return is difficult and not cost-effective 'legally' beyond the temporary import permit period...and would only put my host in an untenable and illegal position otherwise and (while enticing) also present a challenge for me to cross out of Argentina if and when I did return. Second, selling the bike 'legally' is also ridiculously complicated and expensive with a u.s. license plate and to do so illegally would likely result in a police call to my lawyer. Third, last, and at this point most appealing, likely, legal and cost-effective (at least to me) is to ship the klr home where she belongs. Granted the cost in shipping is about as much as she is worth...but in addition to the prospects of resuming our rides back in the states, our sentimental connection to south america, and that the old girl still has value in parts (when that day comes)... the fact remains she is not my bike and so she'll return to where she started.

I should add another fitting end is that of my olympus FE-220 camera which quit on me my last days drive to B.A....symbolic perhaps...I don't blame it for dying because of how awful i abused it. She has been a trusty friend on the bike...and in the end, I was taking more motorcycle journal vids than I was writing.

There was my mothers visit the first week here...I have to say, 3 and a half months biking it down here is tiring enough... a week checking out all of buenos aires with mom is more... I applaud her energy at such a young age (Happy Birthday Mom!). The pics of B.A. are also taken with her camera since I've taken mine apart to to figure out.

While working out the bike logistics and saving money for Peru...I'm also waiting on some other travellers to catch up with me here in Buenos Aires. The Suzukis have taken the trip south through Chile and Argentina I had wished too (minus Ushuaia)... I vow to return to this area someday. They have updated their blog with a german-english translation link on the bottom right but the pictures speak for themselves. The Texans are also making their way up to B.A. from Torres Del Paine (but i think this is a second run down here to accomplish this for them... at least for Merritt).

I'll be updating my past blog entries and posting more pictures this week.

Ushuaia, Argentina

2009-03-30T07:26:00.000-07:00

I made it to the southern most city in the Americas! Here in Tierra del Fuego shared by both Argentina and Chile...borders are easy but a nuisance to cross in and out of multiple times. This only one of the challenges...the wind and dirt roads make it even more fun...it wouldn´t be worth getting here if it weren´t challenging.

I´ve had my celebratory beers here at the end of the world...a local beer and on tap...called Beagle (named for the Beagle Channel Ushuaia sits on).

I´ve made it with over 12,000 miles logged. Of course one of the more recent issues with the bike is the broken odometer-speedometer so I´m not actually sure what the correct milage is... this only adds more charm to the old gal. I register my speed with the tachometer now... and the mileage-fuel by the sides of the road Km markers.

I will be starting my trek north to Buenos Aires tomorrow where Mom is flying in next week. It will be a long final 3,000K leg with the bike as I´ve decided to separate from the bike here in Argentina and travel by other modes...

The scenery here is incredible as all places i´ve been. I hiked outside of Ushuaia up Martial Glacier this afternoon...temps are freezing, fall colors abound and winter is around the corner...i drove through a blizzard coming into Ushuaia. I made it by the end of March as hoped... I haven´t seen another motorcycle either.

Ushuaia is seen here from Martial Glacier...

Rio Gallegos, Argentina

2009-03-28T13:28:00.000-07:00

I´ve had a change of itinerary due in part to bike needs. More on that story when i have the time and energy...most likely in Buenos Aires in the next week where I will meet Mom coming down to visit for a week. Just wanted to let folks know I´m safe in Pategonia.

My initial plans to trip all the way down hwy 40 to torres del paine and then Ushuaia have been detoured to the atlantic coast where bike parts are to be had.

As an update, I´ve been held up here in Rio Gallegos, Argentina (a days drive to Ushuaia) for a few days waiting for new sprockets and chain... good to go now.

I´ll be heading to Ushuaia tomorrow for the final leg of this end of the world bike trek...then it´s back north. Check out the google map for the detour. I may try to catch Glacier national park on the way north.

Pategonia is extremely windy... the bike is often blown into the oncoming traffic lane... have to slow down when ever cars approach just to make sure. The neck is definitely getting a work out in the wind with the helmet and the klr is often driven at an angle while going straight down the road.

Pucon, Chile

2009-03-23T06:49:00.000-07:00

Just passing through Pucon with Volcan Villarica National Park here... Made it yesterday from Santiago with 500 miles of road down. Not really sure which way i am heading south right now but thinking of crossing the border here near Puesco, Chile to Argentina and driving down 40 to the Glacier National Park.

Caught some sights in Santiago Saturday like this contemporary Chilean art museum... this was a favorite exhibit...

But mostly enjoyed catching the Parabas Open. Even a traveller needs to take a weekend of nothing along the way...even made it to Pucon to catch a not so great match between Nadal and Murray.

Valparaíso, Chile

2009-03-19T17:00:00.000-07:00

40,000 miles on the odometer here in Valparaiso Chile...

Valpo, for short, is another World Unesco Heritage city with character and a bit of a bohemian atmosphere, reminds me of San Fransisco in a way. Many artists, musicians, street performers, and starving college students who dress up in rags as part of the traditional first day of college...

The students desperately beg for spare change from passer bys to pay for tuition.

Vicuña, in the Valle de Elqui was a nice detour off the panamerican as well coming off of that major haul on the bike. The Valle de Elqui was the first major break from the dry atacama desert driving...renowned for it´s agricultural production particularly Pisco grape growing. I of course took a tour, sampled and bought some for the road.

I also took in an observatory star gazing tour learning much more about the southern Hemispheric night sky...we viewed the southern cross, the orion nebula, saturn, spiral galaxies, globular star clusters and more... The tourist telescope was a 40 cm one compared to the 10m research telescope a couple valley tops over. Apparently this is one of eight premier spots on the planet to catch the sky.

Truly best of all was the 70 some kilometer back roads drive from Vicuña to Ovalle (Ovalle was just a pitstop to the Parque Fray Jorge)....the trek was one of the most awe inspiring, solitary bike rides I´ve had...of course I say that about every back roads trek. It was scrub cactus terrain, not completey void of vegetation.

I camped outside of Parque Fray Jorge not at any determined campsite...which was probably one of the best campsites I´ve pitched... You can see how the bike is really a mobile kitchen too. The back roads had gotten tiring and so I decided to break into one of the bottles of capel while relaxing by fire and map... Still holding off on the beer until Ushuaia... but I can´t pass up on grape country.

All the back roads since Costa Rica had finally broken the welds from the box mount repair from that first inaugural spill (plus some less than memorable drops of the bike here and there). I pitstopped on my way down to Valpo at some random city, asked for a welder and less than five minutes found this guy who repaired it for less than $5. Proof once again that you don´t need to bring tools with you on these bike treks.

Valpo is pretty cool, a dirty, stacked city with new school technology stacked on top of old school technology. I plan to trip up one of the hills on these city ascensors which are trolley elevators. But I´ve been enjoying local restaurant recommendations from the Hostal hostess. I´m awaiting a pic from a Texan couple on the chorillana platter we shared together at one local restaurant. Chorillana which is a heaping plate of french fries with steak, onions, and fried eggs on top.

I met up with the meyers in San Pedro and stumbled upon them yet again here in Valpo. They are heading in the same direction south towards patagonia. I´m heading to Santiago (an hour east of valpo) for a couple nights before heading further south towards the Lake Region.

Vicuña, Chile

2009-03-16T08:18:00.000-07:00

600 miles and over $45 in gas in one day yesterday...definitey a feat in itself...my ass is feeling it too. You can see the distance coveraged on the google map. Decided to book it down south closer to Santiago to make sure i cover the entire country before time runs out. The dryness was getting old...no vegetation, massive altiplano mountain landscapes that can make you go crazy...

I crossed the tropic of capricorn...the country has had a daylight savings change...only an hour difference with CST, makes little difference to me.

I actually had to switch to the reserve gas for a first... again the gas stations are far and few between...so any station you come across, it is wise to fill up (note to self)

Left San Pedro Saturday and drove south through the desert (also indicated on the google map) coming across a llama-alpaca herd crossing the road... My finger indicating the atacama desert in northern Chile.

I had every intention of camping it that night in the desert but then reallized that the rain had turned a lot of it to mud flats (see last blog entry) and then the desert turns into a salt flat which was also not conducive for camping. It was an enjoyable back roads ride to Antofogasta pretty much all by myself...

Made it to Antofagasta and not finding a $10 hotel, I camped alongside the Pacific ocean on a public beach...not great sleep after reallizing it was Saturday night and teens were in full courtship all night on the beach. I found this npr story on sacromento camp cities interesting and a bit familiar...

Woke up early pre-sunrise, packed the bike and booked it down not really with any intention of going as far as I did...but I knew I wanted to check out the Valle de Elqui which is an agricultural center here in Chile just north of Santiago. Plan to spend a couple nights here...seems to be a lot of eco-agri-tourism...

p.s. Sarah, even though I drove all Sunday, I still took in the Vicuña Catedral when I arrived after sunset for my Lental solidarity...not many people this time of day.

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

2009-03-13T16:09:00.000-07:00

I might be in the driest desert in the world here in San Pedro de Atacama but it has rained every day since I arrived for the most part. Causing much turmoil to the tourist trade but also adding some much needed character and slow pace to the trip. When the lights go out the candles take their place.

Thus, I have not posted in awhile on account of the quaint electrical outages, the tourist internet prices and just because I´ve enjoyed not being plugged in. I´ve also spent more than one night in a spot taking a breather from the bike.

I´ve taken the time to relax, read, and set a better itinerary through Chile, Argentina, and Bolivia (hopefully) than I have...which I hadn´t.

I´m still in the northern part of the country but detoured to the eastern Andean border of the country near Bolivia. I spent a night in Mamina after Arica, where I nearly ran out of gas for the first time in the trip yet countered that with a hot sulfur bath to relax and a nice elderly couple with a gallon jug. Not many gas stations.

This is the San Pedro church the city of less than 2,000 is named after.

So much to do and see here...too much to post at this time. So I´ll just share the salar de atacama with you...only one of two salt lakes in the world (second to the dead seas) where the salt density is so great that you just float on the water. The salt really dries you out and covers your body...I´d already brushed down some of the salt before taking this photo of my leg. The salt crystals along the shore are so sharp, it will slice you up if you aren´t careful.

The scenery was incredible with the mountain and cloud reflections in the salt lake.

Just to share the road conditions to the salt lake after last nights rain, I´m posting this video and photo.

Arica, Chile

2009-03-09T17:27:00.000-07:00

Made it to Chili here in Arica along the northern coast. Two hours time zone difference from CST which has messed with the internal clock. I´ve not worn a watch a whole trip, no need of course. I´ve often mistaken the days but this is the first I was taken aback by the sun since it has been my time keeper. In less than 24 hours, I proceed from Peru where the sun rises at 6am and sets 6pm... to Chile where the sun rises at 8am and sets at 8pm......makes sense for a country coming out of summer and the further south I go.

I snapped a couple of photos at the border...for reference. I´ve crossed the 8,000 mile odometer mark. Santiago is quite a ways down...and that´s only half way down to Ushuaia.

Sunday morning in Nazca, I toured the local market before Lental Mass to have breakfast and check out the diversity of stuff...grains and beans.

The diversity of maize

Limes on everything...

even olives...

fish of course...

Red meat...

Quail egg vendors which I should have tried but it didn´t sound so good after the porridge I did have.

Attended lental mass at a less than historic cathedral than last week in Cuenca...but still standing room... I didn´t stay for the whole mass I´ll admit. I wanted to get on the road and it was a good idea since I detpured off at the Nazca cemetary that is under excavation (an appropriate side detour after Mass). I didn´t plan on doing this but saw some other tourists side track off the Panama in a taxi and since I have the bike, what the heck.

The Nazca culture was big on spirituality and mummification... They were titled Nazca by the Inca which in Quechua means ¨people of suffering¨because of the poor environmental conditions they lived and struggled...it is dry here...not sure what it was like here around the B.C.-A.D. era but I was definitely suffering the heat for the couple hour tour.

The southern coastal drive was just as dry as the north but strikingly different in colors and landscape...jumping from huge sanddune mountains (including the largest one in the world)that take over highways and signs, to Andes coastline drops to the Pacific.

Here is one vid of the drive through southern peruvian Andes... There´s no vegetation anymore.

Nazca, Peru

2009-03-07T18:29:00.000-08:00

Made it as far as Nasca, Peru today from Lima...about 350 miles.

Lima or rather the neighborhood Miraflores within Lima has a U.S.-esque appearance... It was a good break from the cheap pitstop hotels I´ve been crashing at through ecuador and peru. Lima was also an agenda filled pitstop. Had laundry done, had the bike cleaned (new handle bar grips and bike gloves), confirmed Robyn´s flight to Peru in May at the airport, bought a South American road map, and ipod earphones (listening to the ipod more now). May not sound like much for a retired 34 year old on the road but i´m impressed with the success. I even fit in my first cinema movie.

The Stallrate bikes have had yet another reunion here in Lima. Coincendentally running into one another at a great bike repair place in town (they really cleaned the KLR and let us work on our bikes in their shop). I´m not sure we´ll see one another again as were heading in different directions.

Today on the road, I had a break through thought-moment with the bike. With nearly 8,000 miles logged for a first bike trek, I felt a confidence and recognized it. Similar to learning a new language where one experiences a breakthrough point of understanding or knowledge, I feel like I have reached that with this bike. I haven´t reallized all the lessons that have preceded this point but I have a comfortability with the bike now that I am becoming fluent.

I´m about to cross over into Chile sometime Monday making it the last country before my return. Chile, however, still represents half the distance of South America...another 2,400 miles plus and then just as much back up through Pategonia on the Argentina side. I´m going to be enjoying more of the sights in Chile and Argentina. I hope to make a month of it.

On the way to Nasca today, i stumbled across yet more great road photos...

Proof that Peru is Mars.

It was only this martian and dog here in the middle of nowhere....they didn´t say anything to me.

Had to snap a photo of the supercar...

These fertile crescent valleys are also interesting where they sprout...obviously fresh water streams...principle crops seen were cotton, sugar cane, and asparagus and papyrus.

Also stopped at part of the Nasca lines showcased on the Panamericana.

I also stopped a bit further down to shoot the sunset and the moonrise...

Lima, Peru

2009-03-05T16:46:00.000-08:00

In Lima crashing at the flying dog backpackers hostel. Laundry, and some other errands before heading out.

Wanted to share a few photos and vid of my drive down... Northern Peru along the Coast is much what I imagine Mars must be like. It´s a long drive through sand and rock. Took two days. Southern Peru looks to be the same distance if a bit more.

The drive is beautiful in it´s desolation, dryness, and great distance...here is sort of a 270 panoramic.

Further South, the more sand, sand-dunes, and sand blizzards...

These next photos go out to Andrewsus... couldn´t help but think of his soul when I came across these religious billboards.

Bare Mountains make for great Billboards...not sure if you have to rent the side of the mountain... Haven´t seen the Nazca Lines yet in southern peru near Machu Pichu but it would be amusing if these followed in their footsteps of our time here for future generations.

Got to love the 24 restaurant...that wasn´t open...the only one in many, many miles, i was so ready for my morning instant coffee.

p.s. I have since re-discovered that the effects of El Niño dictate the dryness the further south, particularly here in Peru. The warmer ocean waters of confront the colder winds from the south and drop all the water closer to the equator... The Chilean Altiplano is going to be very interesting when i get there. I´ve done my best to make it by the end of March. The last recommended time to visit before winter kicks in. Funny that I should be leaving the U.S. when it starts winter...and I´ll be returning my voyage home with the beginning of the southern hemisphere winter. I´m glad I didn´t give up the long johns.

Piura, Peru

2009-03-03T17:11:00.000-08:00

Crossed over into Peru today...made it as far as Piura thanks to the navigational short cut suggestion from Taxiche-Malacatos, Ecuador to Macara border town. I was definitely off or on the beaten trail on this one... whichever way you look at it...I was the only one on this road for the climb up... I´m sharing three different perspectives on the ride up... truly one of the more memorable rides...

The beginning...

half way...

and top

Loja, Ecuador

2009-03-02T06:43:00.000-08:00

Pitstopping in Loja for the night... and the roads have detiorated insanely...it´s one thing to expect horrible roads and prepare yourself for the whole journey of bad roads but when there is a mile of great pavement followed by a mile of gravel going back and forth for 120 miles one does go a bit mad ...and then there is the pavement with potholes that can take a bike out. 120 miles with the roads and mountains takes nearly 4 hours. Granted it´s through some of the most beautiful part of the country I´ve come across. Clouds above and clouds below. Posting a vid of my trip between Cuenca and Loja... I make a note that I say Lajos in the video which is incorrect. Recognize that the reason I sound winded is because I am. With high altitude oxygen levels , road conditions, up and down mountains...the body gets a work out.

These are side by side photos of the video since the quality isn´t that great...

In case people are in fear of me losing weight on the road what with the bike and semi-bad eating habits...it remains impossible for me to gain or lose... and sure enough I was able to confirm this out for the first time in my trip. Apparently there is a market for people wanting to know their weight in Cuenca since I came across a couple of these vendors with scales. For .20 I checked it out. I may test the market back in the states and start this as a business when i get back.

This photo was actually taken on the way to Cuenca where I experienced driving through clouds for the first time in the trip. The first photo is taken above one cloud layer...while the second is taken 30 minutes later underneath the cloud. I continued to go up and down through the clouds to Cuenca...it´s amazing how these cities are tucked in between these valleys.

You may notice some changes or additions to past posts (Cuenca last entry). I´m trying to update posts with more photos and vids when I get to better internet locales.

I´m continually amazed at the frequency and availability of these internet cafes...nearly around every corner charging .60-.80 an hour... I´m enjoying catching npr nearly every morning... I find this story a bit humorous since one usually has to pay for public bathrooms south of the U.S.

Cuenca, Ecuador

2009-02-27T15:15:00.000-08:00

Made it to Cuenca, Ecuador yesterday with likely the longest ride on the trip (timewise) of about 9 hours (this first photo reveals the tight fit through hotel entrances here leaving Quito).

Beautiful long drive and the body is feeling it. On my way to Lojas, Ecuador to rendesvouz with a Heifer acquaintance. I checked in with the Ecuador Country program office before leaving Quito and will hopefully spend more time on my way back. My thanks to the program for their kind invite back. I heard there will be a meeting in bolivia around April and may actually be going through Bolivia around that time... The plan is to rush through Peru since plans are for Robyn to fly down to Lima in May for a much needed mid-travel relationship reunion. It will be fun to experience Machu Pichu with her too. I´ll then head into Chile bouncing back and forth between Argentina until Tierra Del Fuego reaching Ushuaia by end of March. Afterwards heading north to Buenos Aires for a bit of downtime before heading onto Bolivia and then Peru.

I also visited the Equator in Ecuador but not the more commercial Mitad Del Mundo amusement park that is not even on the equator but touts it with a monument. I visited the Museo Del Solar which is an excellent crash course on Indigenous Ecuadorian solar astronomy.

I need to use this star gazing instrument Robyn gave me before leaving. I have only really used it on the sailboat.

Cuenca is debated to be as beautiful as Quito by lonely planet...the two cities of Ecuador. It is a beautiful town and a nice break. I love the terra cotta roofs throughout Ecuador seen here from the window of my hotel.

I want to point out that I am not Catholic and that my lental practices are more for character building and solidarity with my Catholic friend Sarah and fellow non-Catholic friend Michelle who have also taken up this physical and spiritual challenge...

.... When in Rome or South America and during Lent it would be a sin to miss a Mass. This video is a standing cathedral only. You´ll have to rotate your screen or head.

While i have given up sweets for lent i´ve not given up these natural juices...i love the coconut but the blackberry is great too...a great substitute for the beer that I have given up drinking since the Carribean. This is taken at a local mercado in Cuenca where they sell everthing from produce to meat on three different levels. The cleanest, nicest facility and best run public market I´ve come across on the trip. I bought some avacados (3/$) and got a free banana but passed on the hogs head.

And I continue to run across these city monuments...the first somewhere between Cuenca and Lojas. The second in Lojas city.

Quito, Ecuador

2009-02-25T12:21:00.000-08:00

Back in the land of the dollar again... Ecuador only charges .20 for the tolls. It´s by far the cheapest country I´ve travelled. Spent the first night at a regular hotel in a small city-village where I paid only $7. This is by far the best breakfast deal I´ve come across on this trip the first morning in the country for only $1.50 for steak, eggs, rice, cheese roll, grape juice, and coffee.

I am doing the same here in Quito in the historic ¨Unesco World Heritage¨ part of the city where I´m crashing for $7 a day at the San Augustin (where the locals stay not even listed in the lonely planet). I´m starting once again to keep track of expenses to share the differences of the countries...we´ll see how long it lasts.

My bike is yet again being parked in a courtyard included in the price. I wish I could share a video of my bike jumping the curb and the hotel entrance to get inside. The room has three beds which I´m taking the opportunity to dry the tent and repack... I even have tv...which does not show picture but I can at least hear the news in English...

The city is more colorful than Popoyan as seen from the window view of my room taken side by side.

I enjoyed walking around the brightly lit historic city last night with a couple photos to share...plan to do more of the city today.

There are friendly people who give you a point of the finger for directions and then there are those like this guy that went way beyond the `finger´ to help me find a part of Quito. This guy drew a map and then as if that was not enough... looked up a detailed map of the city on his laptop to show me...I can only imagine they were engineers pit stopped by the side of the road. Either way, I was lost after a couple more miles down the road. Then another helpful biker soul escorted me to the right street again to old town Quito.

Before leaving Colombia I took a minor guide book detour from the Ipiales border town to see the Santurios de Las Lajas. A church built (1926-1944) into a mountain to commemorate the sight of the virgin mary.

Along the hike down to the Cathredal there are some interesting vendors selling religious commercial items. I particularly like the colored plastic containers to collect holy water. For lent

I´ve decided to give up artificial sweets and snacks for lent... I´ve indulged more than my share along this trip. Either it´s the real chocolate or pastry or nothing at all. I´m not sure why I´m favoring these sweets on the trip more than I have at home if perhaps simply withdrawal pains from American preservatives. It seems the real thing is not so simple to come by or it costs...as to be expected most of the best goods are shipped to the states or elsewhere for better product prices. Nestle is evil and thus I´m giving it up for Lent and most likely for good hopefully. This includes my Nido dried milk which might be harder.

Ecuador´s panamericana is by far the best in the whole trip... nearly 150 miles into the country and i have yet to see any deterioration and little maintenance being done. A nice change at least so far...it is the second smallest country in S.A. so that may help. Most countries will start off for the first 30 miles with great roads and then they fall apart. Also interesting along the side of the road are a couple of monuments to a couple cities I passed. I did not take the time to examine their significance closer.

The bike is holding up well after 6,000 miles. I´m focusing on keeping the chain lubricated more than i did with the last one and hope it lasts for me. I´ve got quite a many more thousands of miles to go in South America...

One notice along the Panamerica Andes is that the Ecuadorian Andes are a bit more dry than the Colombian Andes. I´m not sure why, whether elevation or equatorial (I´ve officially crossed into the Southern Hemisphere). The photo of my helmet is of the southern Colombia Andes while the second with farmers in the field is of the northern Ecuadorian Andes. The climate difference is regardless of the north or south facing slopes.

There are a couple thoughts on the panamericana that i´ve stumbled across. For most on bikes it seems pase´and not the real country (though these are generally travelling few countries at great length)...to others it´s the fast track to Ushuaia. Whether cultural or destination most strike a balance in between. I would like to think i also fall somewhere in between by the way I travel, balancing tourist destinations with random pit stops of social life here and there (it´s really hard to force a social interaction, more than likely I´ve found the people find me). There is no reason one can not experience cultural life along the highway...it doesn´t make the experience or exchange any less real...just different than if on the back roads. This is more of an argument to those anti-panamericana...anyway the panamerican is often no better than a common MS Delta road.

At this point in the trip I am destination driven...another facet of western dominant culture I recognize. I also feel guilty for passing many of these cool experiences that are only to be had with sitting for greater lengths and conversing...another trip... for now i remain destination driven for Ushuaia and i find no fault in it. I want to be counted among the many that have made it there by motorcycle...

There´s something to be said about experiencing a little bit of a lot of countries. In my perspective a bike is meant for two things (there are many more bike purposes like the beauty of centrifugal force on a bike around curves...and the aforementioned ability to park anywhere... but for the intent of this pendantic point it will suffice for two). One, to go where no one has gone before or at least a car and two, to feel the wind and environment... sometimes the wind goes right through the helmet...other times it hits one in deep retrospection about Spanish words along the highway not understood, about my life after this trip... worse though is the repetition of a really bad song in one´s head...there´s no hope after that...best to get off the bike and break.

And then this time I had a respite of traffic while driving and decided to share a bit of my Andean ride with you (turn down the audio since the wind is a bit much). I´m only going about 30mph.

Popoyan, Colombia

2009-02-23T13:26:00.000-08:00

I did not heed my own advice and relax yesterday and got on the bike south... but for better and worse I am enjoying some down time in Popoyan today. Got caught in a downpour and arrived to the Casa Familiar Turistica soaked. The woman took pity on me since I couldn´t find public parking and allowed me to park the bike in her entryway...just wide enough for the bike... i also posted a picture to share a hostel dormitory...each is different from one another but it´s basically the same thing...a bunch of dorm beds in one room. It is a nice break from the tent.

The better part is that I ran into the Bjoern and Ines (german suzuki biker couple from the Stahlratte) at the hostel. We enjoyed a great dinner of pizza and jugos naturales con leche while catching up. They took the route through Bogota from Cartegena while I took the route south through Medellin.

They bought their bikes in California and started down around early December. They created their own license plates with adobe photo shop since their authentic ones weren´t ready...they plan to pick them up in Quito. We will likely bump into one another again on our way down to Ushuaia. They have a great blog if you can read german.

http://www.thebundschuhs.de

I´ve borrowed some ideas from there´s to update my own blog. I have started with a google map that shares the route of my trip to date (click on the south america safari map link). I had been tracking my expenses like they but gave up for sake of sanity. I think I will resume this since it will be an interesting testament to my travel frugality. They are also travelling with one of those compact computers which I should have looked closer at when Sharon shared the idea with me. It would have paid for itself with all the internet cafe costs on this trip.

Popoyan is a quaint white washed colonial city. Easy to get turned around since everything is white. The only color coming from vendor umbrellas and fruit stands.

I´ve enjoyed soaking it up and breaking up the time between Cali and here...I´ve also enjoyed some non street food here. In addition to the pizza I treated myself too last night. I had a great breakfast of tamale, coffee, and cheese-roll. Lunch included a more sophisticated version of the traditional Colombian meal which includes sopa platano, onion-lettuce-tomato salad, rice, beans, grilled chicken or steak, with a sweet platano and jugo natural.

It seems to be a city of churches too...but none of them open. With Lent around the corner and all these churches...there is strong consideration of sacrificing something for forty days... there are some friends back home who are also taking up this challenge (BFF).

I hope to start out early tomorrow morning for Ipiales and then Ecuador. Colombia has been a great start to South America.

Cali, Colombia

2009-02-21T04:11:00.000-08:00

Cartegena to Cali in four days... Colombia is big. This blog is a tribute to the restaurants along the road that have let me crash the night in exchange for my patronaging their establishments... Unfortunately issues with the camera prevent me from sharing all the unique spots I've camped at. I'm starting to have issues with this olympus FE-220 that i've enjoyed but the card is acting up and somehow deleted all the photos from Cartegena to Manizales.

It's quite a good deal actually. I get a good dinner and breakfast before hitting the road not too mention being the only tourist which makes for great conversation and unique perspective... I've only one picture of "the restaurant-campsite travel" on my third night. This is taken in the Nevados National Park with some of the highest peaks in the Colombian Andes just outside of Manizales. You may be able to see my bike and tent beneath the restaurant. I have been the only tourist at these places which offers great conversation and perspective. I climbed the peak (~4500m) in the background but decided not to lay down the $40 to climb Nevado de la Ruiz, which is the highest peak at 5300m which was clouded over for the most part, not worth spending the money. I only caught a glimpse of the snow capped peak in the freezing sunrise morning but again the pictures are lost of that. The only ones I have share the moisture that came in soon after sunrise. These three are taken side by side.

The road down to Cartegena is awesome and beautiful... driving from the coast to and through the Andes...and of course the mudslides that come with them. My route was through Medellin (where I picked up some new bike tires) and Manizales. Here's a collection of photos and video of the mudslide that occured fairly recently.

I had so many great photos of road side travel that were lost... but of great news here in Colombia is that motorcycles don't have to pay tolls as seen in this photo...we just go right on through to the right. Sweet.

And of course the mule transport around the Andes corners are interesting. This is one carrying milk canisters. There were also many with coffee along highways in the cafe region. Cali is sugar cane country.

Made it to Cali on Friday and as usual I took in some of the cultural sites around cali...

...some more historical than others... but nevertheless interesting and humorous.

These walks are a nice balance of seeing the culture by foot instead of bike. Walks are also free. Some areas are nicer than others. Lonely planet reports that Cali is the plastic surgery capital of the world...perhaps they should use some of that money to facelift some parts of the city. This parque has seen better days.

The figurines in walls and sidewalks make for an interesting cultural advertisement. Might be interesting to see catfish carved into MS Delta roads and sidewalks.

Also catch some interesting food vendors while walking. Tried this interesting diced up fruit drink with pineapple, mango, papaya, and banana...plus whatever else they have I guess. Not bad for fifty cents. This is taken with the teatro principal behind me. Checked out the gold museum too.

And then there was the key vendor that had custom fobs... coincidental that he would have a bike in the same color as my klr. A must buy.

Even took in a local library where I stumbled upon this book (in english too) that gave some great photos of the highest peaks in Colombia. Quite coincidental after having been in the Nevados. The Walemavu need to check this out.

Ended up walking all the way to the zoo by the afternoon and decided to check it out. It is also touted as the best zoo in Colombia...commercial but a decent focus on Colombia wildlife.

Ended up taking a bus back to the city center. My first bus on this trip and a reminder of the lack of shocks on public transport. I actually may stay in Cali another night and relax from the road... Protect the sabbath and watch some the men's final morgan keegan Memphis tennis match with Roddick and Stepanek. I'm hoping to make Ecuador sometime this week.

Cartegena, Colombia

2009-02-15T12:29:00.000-08:00

Back on dry land for a couple days now here in Cartegena, Colombia. I've made it to South America. The stomach is returning to some normalcy. There were some days out on the carribean that the digestion was acting in two directions (without getting to graphic). I would think the two would counter effect one another. To end my last day in Panama, i picked up my first stomach bug which made the last motorcylce leg all the more interesting. I will admit that i am turning into a motorcross fanatic the more experienced i become on these back roads...the road to carti (which is nothing more than a small dock-port to the san blas islands) was the best.

Besides the familiar gravel roads I've become accustomed too and are almost a blessing now... this trek added mud, a river crossing, and portaging the klr on a canoe to the sail boat.

Getting to South America really marks a major point in the trip. All to the help of the German sailboat Stahlratte 'steel rat'. It's quite by chance that this is a communal non-profit oriented 40m boat that has some great crew associated with it. You can find more info at the website... http://www.stahlratte.org/. The half dozen of us that sailed to Colombia, a mixture of Germans, Australians, UK, USA, and Canadians enjoyed four close days together on the open water under a full moon. Five of us were bikers. A great group.

The winds are not in favor of those heading towards Cartegena this time of year. We putted around the San Blas for a couple of days visiting a few of the 400 some islands, swimming, snorkeling, sun burning, beach-grilling, and relaxing for the most part on uninhabited islands. AN ISLAND ALL TO YOURSELF. The indigenous Kuna Yala inhabit these islands amidst the mass tourist industry where you can rent a thatched hut for $25 a night. I did not spend much time visiting Carti (one of the principle islands) and do not have much insight into the culture. My perspective on this is that I would rather limit my interaction with an indigenous group that is maintaining their identity since my interaction (in conjunction with all other toursits) are skewing this identity and image and not in a good way. The captain is fairly familiar with the people given the trade and shared some interesting anecdotes which sufficed for my part.

Upset stomach and all I was the first to dive into these waters from the bow.

Many of us climbed the crowsnest which is a bit unnerving as you try to enter the narrow closure some 50' high.

After a couple days we set sail on the 3rd morning for the open waters to Cartegena. I admit I fell prey to the seasickness giving me pause for my life dream of building and sailing the high seas in my retirement. I might stick to the dream of building one. I wasn't the only one and would almost guarantee that everyone was feeling it in some form or another. Eating was definitely light (non-existent for me) that day, and listening to music (glad to have the ipod) while staying topside was key. Some of us even slept on top that last night not wanting to risk the sleeping quarters below deck.

Still, nothing beats having dolphins swimming at the bow, the sunrises and sounds of the sail and the false pretense that we are actual sailers by taking the wheel.

We finally arrived into Cartegena around noon on the 12th after four days travel. Bikes arrived on board the Stahlratte on Sunday February 8th and we set off on the 9th with the entire tourist manifest-cargo. The $700 ($350 for person and for bike) in the end was worth the experience. The company, cuisine, and collective nature of cooking and cleaning made for a great trip. Our last kingfish lunch-dinner was spent in cartegena harbor. It was caught by our captain the day before at sea.

The passport paperwork bureaucracy was completely bypassed in the traditional manner with the captain´s connections to immigration officers.

We semi-smuggled the bikes, one at a time, to shore with the stahlratte´s dingy. According to Colombia law bikes and passengers should not arrive on the same boat. This is the husband of one german couple on board riding suzuki 650 cousins to my kawasaki 650. It was good to get our bikes back on dry land...we were quite the sight and surprisingly not checked by passing police. It was also interesting to see how others have packed their bikes.

The odometer reading starting in South America. We would complete the bike paperwork the next day (Friday)...which apparently turns out to be one of two days that motorbikes are not allowed to be on the road again according to Colombia law...color us tourists...we weren´t going to wait until Monday. I was only pulled over once by the police on this but without much offense, just a courteous reminder.

Saturday, I set about getting the rest of the bike parts i intended too in Panama (tires, chain, sprockets, back brakes). I managed across a decent repair shop amidst many. The one I stumbled upon seemed legit and friendly and less crowdy. I´ll be sticking around until at least Monday given some expected repair shop time constraints. I´ve taken the time to enjoy the sights around Cartegena.

Relaxing at the hotel one afternoon with the hotel manager in the historic centro of cartegena (who touts the hotel has been here since the days of christ and she´s likely correct) she donned my helmet with no prompt from me and proceeds to pretend riding a motorcycle...should have gotten her bike noises on video. Didn´t need spanish for that one.

The historical center is surrounded by a wall built to dissuade piraters and invasions which Cartegena was quite heavily done as a principle port in it´s time. The city is truly beautiful with bouganvillea clad narrow streets...some bouganvillea under construction behind corrugated sheets.

This photo overlooks the eastern wall of the historic city looking out on the new highrise bocagrande development that is the city today.

It is best just to walk and enjoy...

Street vendors and carts galore. This is a quick snapshot of a fresh pressed orange juice cart behind a metal sculpture depicting the same. And of course the grilled meat. One kabob running less than a dollar.

Panama City, Panama

2009-02-07T15:03:00.000-08:00

Back in panama city...not much luck securing a lift across the carribean to Colombia so it seems we´ll be laying down the $700 after all for the sail boat across. It´s a definite thing...after nearly a week of trying for something...anything is better than nothing at this point. At least we tried.

The "we" in this story is another biker "Josh" (an Australian biking down from California to Colombia on a BMW bike) and I. We had stumbled across one another in San Cristobol de las Casas, Mexico at the top of Central America...and just again stumbled across one another again at the bottom of Central America in Panama City at the mamallena hostel (http://mamallena.com/). A great hostel for those other travellers...they are always booked up but somehow find room for you.

They were even the ones who helped secure the sail ride we dismissed in the beginning for hope of a better deal. They were also the ones that said we wouldn´t find anything better. And they didn´t say, "we told you so" as we strolled back into town today after a week of searching along Colon, Portobeno and Miramar with no success. They couldn´t have predicted (or perhaps they did) the weather that has been hitting the San Blas Area between Panama and Colombia. All sailboats this time of year are heading the other direction away from Colombia, the containers are a pain in the ass with paperwork and corporate bargaining back and forth, and all the bargos, and kuna yala boats seemed to care less about taking a couple of gringos in their cargo-fish boats for such an adventure. Regardless of better weather and our U.S. dollars it seemed.

I would be remiss if i didn´t share that Panama has been the pits of the trip so far. The people I´ve interacted with are of the type that don´t appear to want "me" here. I will caveat my perspective by emphasizing that they are mine and mine alone. Others have found Panama to be quite alright. Except for the great time in Santa Catalina, my determination at this point is to skip Panama on my way back north.

It is for no other reason than the people who seem to be a bit irritated with either tourists or Americans (U.S. finally relinquishing independence of the canal in "99).

I´ve been cursed at quite forcefully, had a coconut deliberately thrown at me on my bike, and three times stopped and harrased by the police at separate locations (only one time do I consider legitimate unintentional speeding since they don´t have speed limits posted on the highway at all places). Fortunately, no ticket but definite subdued signs of bribing were coming across. These are just a few of the experiences that have made Panama less than desirable. It might just be that my luck had run out throughout Central America to this point. I´m hoping it returns with this sail to Colombia.

Despite the overall negative opinion I have for Panama, there were some genuinely good times and interesting moments amidst the "American" irritability in me. This is a sno cone Panama style I couldn´t pass up for .30. A tribute to the sno cones in the MS Delta. While I regretted the sugar crash an hour later, it was truly the best sno cone of my life...with malted milk on top of a mix of strawberry and orange flavors. It was interesting how they shaved the ice on the spot from a block of ice. It was a much needed break from the Colon port where we attempted to secure bike passage on a container...too expensive and not worth the time.

We took some time to see the sites as well, like Portobello, an old colonial fort town. I particularly like how Portobelo is built around and into the pre-existing fort walls which for the most part was destroyed for coral fill in the damming of the Canal. Here are a few snapshots of the new cement homes and the old fort coral structures.

I couldn´t help thinking of walking up to the canon to see if I could fire one off at the sail boats that were in harbor here in Portobelo waiting out the weather.

A sneak snapshot of some soccer kids in the fort playing while on school break. In Costa Rica and Panama (at least) it seems students are on "summer" break during the winter months...their dry season. They return mid-march.

Portobelo also is home to the iconic, life-size black christ and festival held every March. Not a great picture. I wanted to respect people going up and lighting candles at the altar and snapped this one quickly.

I will also comment that a current peace corps volunteer we came across in one of the villages we pit stopped at shared with us that Racism is quite prevalent in Panama towards the afro-carribean population. Colon (canal port opposite Panama City) gets quite a bad guidebook recommendation and touts extreme violence. Drugs are also a big problem here with the traffiking from Colombia. It goes without saying that a mix of Panama pride and resentment towards outsiders-tourists (U.S. for sure), combined with racism, poverty and drugs do not lend themselves to a positive environment or experience here.

I´ve attached a vid of the ocean and us relaxing with some popular Panama beer called Balboa. Here are some pictures of the debris from the storm ...part of our hotel was flooded from waves but not our room at least. It seems to be a good way to clean the city...

Even a monkey was taking refuge from the storm one morning in a fusbol game on an outside patio at another hostel along the coast we stayed one night at.

We hope the bad weather is behind us and our sailboat is pleasant through the San Blas to Cartegena with the full moon.

Panama City, Panama

2009-02-03T04:36:00.000-08:00

It turns out that one can leave paradise... great view, great food, great company that cost nearly nothing.

I spent last weekend at Santa Catalina along the pacific coast half way between David and Panama City. In minor hopes of running into an old acquaintance i came across some new ones their at a beach camp called Rancho Estero. Right on the ocean it is touted as one of the best surf spots in Panama. A couple of other independent biker couples (2 people per bike with luggage). One was a U.S. mother and her 15 year old son on a KLR 650 1996 as well...

and the other was a young Holland couple. There was also a Brazilian teacher-surfer. I truly enjoyed the brief time there, a rare coming together of bikes in one place as well as a group of different people hanging out together from different countries.

I couldn't pass up on the surfing for the second time in my life. The first, some years back in Sayulita, Mexico I was not even able to stand up...but here it was awesome....

We attempted fishing but ended up buying a red snapper for $8 from down at the fish market and cooking it up. We all ended up leaving on Sunday... which was fitting since it would be a different experience without em.

I don't have much time to update the blog en route to leaving Panama City for the Carribean side to find passage to Columbia. There is a solid offer for $700 for a three day ride with the bike by sail through the san blas islands to cartegena but i would prefer trying to find a cheaper trip. There are a couple other guys in a similar boat (no pun intended) and perhaps we'll stick together. Either way, I'm heading up to portobello and colon to check out some yacht clubs...then maybe looking at a cargo ship. This is a link to share with you all about the options of getting across the darien gap if you aren't aware that it is nearly impossible overland. http://www.newfrontiersadventures.com/MC/CentralAm.html

Yesterday I tried to secure some parts for the bike and was only successful in getting my front brakes. I have heard that Columbia has just as good a chance for bike parts so I will endeavor there. I spent the morning finding the Kawasaki parts place, not the dealer which is where i snapped a photo of this 2009 klr at...

I was unsuccessful at obtaining a klr front brake which would have cost me some $75 here...after some persistence on my part someone at another parts place told me of a brake place that refurbishes them... After only an hour and not asking what the price would be...it only put me out $6. A pleasant surprise and reward for a day walking around smog filled streets...

here is a snap shot of one sign covered in soot...

I'll be happy to get on the ocean where the air will be a bit cleaner hopefully...

David, Panama

2009-01-30T07:10:00.001-08:00

The KLR spill wounds of Costa Rica are gone as quickly as they occurred. I crossed into Panama yesterday crashing (not literally) the night at an rpcv hostel called the Purple House Hostel in David Panama just inside the border. http://www.purplehousehostel.com. Literally everything is purple...

I'm looking at pushing through Panama fairly fast (great four lane for a first) if I'm lucky to get transport arrangements squared away into South America where I'll estimate three months time. I'm also enjoying some leisure time here catching the Australian Open. Fortuitously found the Nadal-Veradasco live semi-finals match on spanish ESPN this morning. What a match...five sets in which Veradasco ends by double faulting to Nadal (30-40) 6-4.

Hoping to catch the womens and mens final this weekend somewhere enjoyable. Trying to rendezvous with a former rpcv from Tanzania...we'll see how that works out.

I spent the last couple days outside Dominical where I once again had to drive on dirt roads, 44KM south of Manuel Antonio along the pacific coastline (photo) and where I pitstopped to catch some parrot action (photo).

Not soon after arriving in Dominical Costa Rica do a couple of gringos come up to the bike...proof that the bike is an equal opportunist crossing ethnic lines (my bike is not discriminatory), a beer and conversation later, I end up crashing a couple nights at an expat place they are renting for a period. Much appreciation to Billy and Harry from Durango, CO for the free pad. Harry runs a bmw bike repair in durango and provided some valuable and much needed insights and adjustments (electrical, chain, etc.) to the KLR.

Here is a mock photo afterwards showing we actually did something. I'm planning on completing a checklist of maintenance needs either here or in Columbia. I´m thinking it might be okay to wait till after shipping the bike before putting on nice new tires, chain, sprockets, and brake pads...just in case something happens to the bike en route. The couple days there also provided a great opportunity to lessen the bike load and leave some more things behind.

It doesn't seem like I'm losing that much all at once by spreading out like this. I did drop the footprint guidebooks as well but first taking some digital photos for reference along the way... it also seems the uke will be played by others than myself along the trip...either way is good with me.

Not too mention the scenery overlooking the pacific to the West and a waterfall to the East. I won't deny the English was a nice break as well from the week of Spanish on the farm.

The area is a mix of Ticos (Costa Ricans) and Gringos (self explanatory) but particularly those of the non-development sustainable persuasion complete with yoga and organic farming. Not like the condo commercial development of Manuel Antonio north, yet! Proof that bad roads deter development.

Yesterday, we all headed further inland to San Isidro de General where every Monday and Thursday there is a farmers market much like the U.S. with producers and not vendors. This farmers market is also a mix of Ticos and Gringos both producers and tourists. I snapped this photo of a guys tshirt to share the sentiment of the area.

While I wrestle with this expat integration, I couldn't help think of setting up shop and starting up my "Basil Boy International" franchise started at the Cleveland MS Farmers Market.

I had a decent but brief conversation with a gringo about the farmers market, who also operates one in another nearby town. Not much different than producer operated farmers markets back in the U.S... While gringos, to an extent, brought western chemicals to the world eradicating indigenous organic knowledge years back, it seems a different breed of gringos are now fostering a demand and education for organic products as differentiated from other producers by the green vests. I'm sure there are papers on this subject and it would be interesting to examine since the couple hours at the farmers market was insufficient.

The flower vendors were incredible...I was tempted to adorn the bike with some of them hanging from the handlebars. I ended up buying some dried chamomoile tea instead.

Also tasted a sweet corn tortilla type pancake called chorreal which might trump the arreba... it is topped with yogurt.

Then I was on my way (after a 34 bday call to Robyn I am regrettably missing) towards the panama border on a beautiful scorcher drive along canyons and rivers... I rarely ever burn but this is proof what the tropical sun can do in a short time (farmer burn) taking this morning writing the blog...

Juntas, Costa Rica

2009-01-27T09:23:00.000-08:00

En route to the Pacific Coast to follow it south from La Cruz where I spent the past week at the Brenes Vargas Dairy Farm. I decided to debrief and have a late morning coffee break which is unneccessary given that the adrenaline is sufficiently elevated due to these back bad ass roads... I did not refuse Mama Ofelias catholic blessing on my head before i departed this morning. Sweet Fancy Moses, if i never see these Costa Rican Roads again...

I wouldn´t be surprised if you can´t see the only sign for Juntas nailed to the tree on the right side of the road... it would have been more helpful at the last four intersections I came across but I´m getting lucky with friendly people and lucky direction instincts. You can see a bit of the road here which is fairly decent compared to some of the steep gravel inclines. I´m not going much more than 25 mph if that for nearly an hour... but nothing beats these panoramic views (as seen in these three side by side photos of the Pacific Gulf coming down from the mountains) that I can appreciate by motorcycle. Sorry for those friends of mine in the Mississippi Delta. That is the Pacific Gulf in the distance.

Anyway, back on pavement again, hopefully for the rest of Costa Rica. As the picture above shares... I don´t really plan this trip until i get on the road. While I have enjoyed having both the Footprint and Lonely Planet guide books, i think i´m going to unburden the bike with the footprint since lonely planet seems to carry more cheaper options. Footprint is definitely the better guidebook with more description and options but it´s also tailored in my opinion for the short term, less frugal traveller. I´m carrying both for Central and South America and this takes up space and weight. The pastry i´m holding is Las Arrebas, the sweet unleavened bread i couldn´t get enough of at the farm and which Ofelia taught me to make. She also gave me some for the road which I couldn´t help dipping into already.

This is a family photo taken right before leaving this morning.

The week on the farm was exactly what I was looking for... I´m again trying to post a video of the dairy barn in which Carlos is chopping some sugar cane which is part of their milking feed along with a bale of hay per day for roughly 17 cows (only 13 being milked) along with mineral supplements and concentrates given in the milking trough during milking. Carlos shared that the grass and consequently milk production is not that great at the moment given the horrible rains they experienced this past season that destroyed the hilly pastures. He commented that generally it is double what it is...see past post fyi.

The milk pump, tank (300 gal) system cost him roughly $3,000 five years ago. The system is of course run with gravity and the electricity on the farm (including the house) runs about $30 a month. Not much expense except for the fertilizer which we spent one morning broadcasting ammonium nitrate by hand with a 5 gal pail. Tractors couldn´t touch these fields. There are 26 paddocks which are rotated daily (about a month).

I also spent a morning with Carlos and his brother checking out a rental pasture where they raise some replacement heifers. A beautiful drive on a four wheeler that he let me take the wheel for awhile. Other tourists we passed on the road were paying nearly $50 plus for such atv riding... Both Ofelia and Carlos´brothers and sisters live in the area with roughly nine each...making for a large family. On my last night I was treated to a family dinner reunion with one of Carlos´s sister visiting for a few days. A great time with great meat, grilled in a tire rim...and coke and whisky that I couldn´t refuse for cultural reasons of course.

I also attended mass with the family Sunday evening and was astounded that I could follow the service in spanish... likely helped by the fact that Catholic Masses are the same around the world. The country is in mourning with the earthquake you may have caught in the news a couple weeks ago. I arrived in the country the same time as the earthquake and everyone I share my bike spill with thinks it was caused by the earthquake... I wish.

And of course as intended I´ve brushed up on my spanish, which I´m fairly impressed on how fast is coming back. Helped of course with childrens books...

and twister games in spanish...good for colors and bodily vocabulary, (this is an inlaws daughter).

I also ended up taking a much needed and well taught private spanish class at the institue yesterday. My gratitude to that organization for this part of my trek. I hope to return on my trek back north...how could I not.

La Cruz, Costa Rica

2009-01-23T11:17:00.000-08:00

Three days on the farm and they decide to come into town for some essentials. They dropped me off at the internet cafe to check my email. We head back for chores and milking in little over an hour. Takes me back to the Francis Farm except the Brenes-Vargas family milks only 9 cows (Holsteins for the most part). They have 5 hectares of hilly land on the outskirts of St Elena which is where I am currently writing. The family has been extremely great with the spanish and the courteous stranger living with them. While the spanish, milking and all is great, I am planning on heading out sooner than expected to 1) warmer climates if you can believe it 2) another friends place in southern Costa Rica where I will be able to stay rent free for another week to brush up on the spanish with another family.

In the past three days, I have helped put a ceiling in the local primary school library with the father Carlos (who doubles as a small scale contractor-carpenter), built some feed troughs-head stantions, and cut and transported some sugar cane (feed) along with elephant grass for the cattle. The mother Ofelia is a great cook and will be teaching me tonight how to make a great sweet bread she has on the table all the time that I can not get enough of.

The daughter Pamela, 10 years old, is probably my best teacher and companion whether on the farm or at home helping me read and translate one of her books as homework. So much to share of course about the milking operation and farm but i have only enough time to post a few pics and notes. Milkings are at 5am and 5pm and last little over an hour and a half which includes everthing from feeding, milking (2 stantions), and cleaning.

The cows, all pasture-based produce a total (no individual measurements are taken on their productions) about 250 Kilos in two days (hauler comes every two days). The milk price is about 240 Colones per Kilo and at the moment $=560 Colones. The family has just bought a fresh Holstein and paid around $1,400. I have not exactly done the math but it is enough to make a middle class living. The area, thanks to tourists like myself, has a high cost of living and then there is also the issue of farmland being bought up by outsiders.

St Elena, Costa Rica

2009-01-21T05:24:00.000-08:00

I've spent the past few days here in St. Elena on the northwest side of the country along the continental divide where the popular Monteverde and St Elena Forest Preserves are home to much of Costa Rica's ecological life. My tourist trek has subsided, as a week long birthday celebration through these must not miss guidebook highlights. I also could not miss the Obama inauguration yesterday catching it live on CNN here at a pizza place that opened just so a few of us U.S. citizens could catch it in english... it was on t.v. everywhere i went but in spanish. As predicted, it's a good time to be a U.S. citizen abroad. Many here are excited with Obama.

I've secured a full emersion "non-english" speaking costa rican dairy farm half an hour north of here where I hope to spend the next two weeks learning spanish and the insides of a costa rican dairy.

The area is extremely beautiful and it was a fortuitious chance that I decided to stay in the area longer given the number of tourists here. I will hopefully be removed from this hustle and bustle of outsiders (like myself i reallize) and the tourist prices at the dairy farm. Their seems to be a growing conflict between eco-tourism and ecological preservation. This is not a new insight for sure but I would wonder what the founders of the preserves would say if they saw their founded community today.

Monteverde is little over a half century old started by some American Pacifist Quakers who left the U.S. after imprisonment and refusal to be drafted into the Korean war. After some searching they decided on the peaceful "non-military" democracy of Costa Rica which still holds true today. - The people are very laid back and have a common saying "pura vida" pure life or thumbs up. - So they started a community here of dairy farming and in the beginning protected thousands of acres of land for the local wildlife. The quaker dairy farmers formed a cheese factory that they then converted to private shares to all the monteverde dairy farmers (Costa Rican). The milk and hence cheese only comes from this area and is quite good at least the few lines they make. The quakers also turned the preserve over to the government which is now a popular tourist destination for birds and all.

As for myself, I only caught some sights and sounds of birds but found particular amazement in the botanical aspect of my hike. I can't include all the pictures but here is a snapshot.

I also toured this famous cheese factory which is where I was connected to the dairy farm I will now be working and learning spanish. The guide, Ronald, is Milwaukee born of Costa Rican parents who returned not long back to Costa Rica. His Greenbay sweatshirt and Miller cap were just one tip of his cheesehead connections seen here.

He referred me to the monteverde institute (http://www.mvinstitute.org) next door where his girlfriend's sister works. Social capital at work, she was more than happy to help set up a connection with a dairy farmer for me at no cost from the institute except for lodging/meals which I will pay to the family (~$10/day). I could not pass this up... They even offer structured spanish courses which I will likely participate in. For the most part, I need some full immersion on my own. I will be heading up there shortly and internet maybe limited for the next couple weeks.

I also caught a local frog museum which I toured, as recommended, at night. These are a couple photos of the Gaudy leaf frog that turned out.

And I also fell prey to the "Extremo" Canopy Zipline rides that are quite popular here... No bridge canopy walking for me... Some of these ziplines are 1000 meters in length from one mountain ridge to another. Definitely an exhiliration for only $30. I'll be spacing these type attractions out...hopefully becoming scuba certified on this journey somewhere. by the way
it´s hard to look good in a helmet like this.

As promised, I've written down my new years and trip goals and will reveal them as I feel relevant. I'm still skeptical with posting too much on this blog. Some of these are obviously essential and common sensical such as motorcycling down and back to the U.S... others are more trivial like learning the ukelele...the one thing I've yet to unburden the bike with as I have with many other items. The bike is definitely getting a lighter as I reallize what is necessary and not. The ukelele is still up there.

Right now I focus on my spanish and start with these next couple weeks. 33 days in and 3500 miles down the road I'm still going strong.

Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica

2009-01-17T10:11:00.000-08:00

Taking a pit stop at a german baker now along Lago Arenal and it started raining...catching up on the blog till it stops...

I've spent the past two days at arenal volcano driving around it and catching some sites. I'm now on my way to Monteverde to spend a day at the forest preserve... one of the best in the country.

Decided to spend one night at a five star hostel in Fortuna which was decent but not much better than camping it...many tourists...myself included. One guy, David, and i conversed at great length and started up a friendly 100 Colones "15 cent" poker game with some other backpackers. David left the table with quite a stash of weighty coins...

This is taken at the arenal waterfalls yesterday morning...quite a swim...

And then later at a much warmer volcano hot springs resort i treated myself too for $22 ... I passed on the $5 beers they served. Over seven different thermal pools...i stayed at the top "hot" one for most of the day...

I left at dark and drove another 10K towards the volcano lava observation areas which is better viewed at night. Pictures wouldn't have turned out but it was definitely a cool thing to see lava spewing out and down the mountain.

This was a private operation ($5) and though camping is not part of the package and without asking, the guy offered me a great spot at the base of the volcano for the night...my own personal view...

I woke, had my peanut butter and tortilla breakfast and hiked all to myself around the private trail before heading off. Took a photo of a lava rock for Beaman who will now analyze and provide great insight... The volcano has been relatively obscured by clouds which has prevented great views but it is incredible all the same.

I posted another 360 video of the surroundings which can be viewed at the bottom of the blog.

I came across a few interesting things on the road this morning besides the german bakery...

This cute road critter seems to be the Delta armadillo of Costa Rica... I decided to head off when it didn't seem to be too scared of me coming quite close with those claws...

didn't stop the next few times I saw them either...in fact saw a pack attack a couple tourists who stopped, got out of their vehicle to feed them as i was rounding a corner... I should have snapped a photo of them dropping their bread bag and running down the road...

Here is a picture of a mudslide...seen often.

Looks like all of costa rica is for sale... if you can see the century 21 sign on the embankment ahead.

Fairly soon even the vacas won't have a place to eat alongside the road...

San Jose, Costa Rica

2009-01-14T10:56:00.000-08:00

It´s the 34th year of mi vida today... in san jose where i just parted ways with friends Gus, Gwen, and Noemi here visiting family. It was my first time seeing Noemi now six months or so of age... She is a cutey...

This is taken at Gwen´s family´s place in San Jose just minutes ago... taking some time to update the blog for which it has been awhile. It has been a great few days with them here and now they return stateside while i ponder my next stop...

it is a great way to celebrate the birthday and relieve some homesickness seeing friends from back home abroad.

As expected, i did not take much time for pitstops or blogging along this trek from Mexico down to Costa Rica. Made in it less than a few days safely until arriving just inside Costa Rica on Saturday where I (1) was coming down with my first cold and (2) had my first dumb ass bike wreck all by myself on the the first completely non paved road of the trip. I learn later that Costa Rica apparently has one of the worst roads through Central America because most of the taxes are used for social priorities.

Seen here afterwards. Going at about 30mph i did not see the bump across the entire road (somewhat visible in the center of the picture) and instinctively prepared myself for an impending disaster. The tire brake mark and bike skid are also evident behind the bike....my skid mark is less evident. A reminder to slow down but not enough to stop me. Somehow both the bike and i survived with minor scrapes and bruises...the bike skidding on the durable plastic gas tank and back boxes i mounted and i skidding on my cheap $20 jc penny leather jacket. Only minor hand and knee scrapes. We both made it to the next decent size town called San Rafael (northern costa rica along hwy 4) where I decided to check out the possibility of correcting the box and mounts which had been bent. Found a great bike sales and repair shop that was very accomodating allowing me to work alongside themselves on other aspects of the bike that needed attention since they had the tools and parts.

It was a pleasant but tiring afternoon with these repair guys shooting the breeze in spanish. One of the guys even made a replacement arm bracket for the box mount that i must take a picture and share in the future. Otherwise this is a picture of the klr semi-naked. 4 hours and less than $20 in costs later (including creation and welding of a new box bracket) I was on my way.

I should share that the cold was at its peak at this point. I didn´t feel much like riding nor wanting to share the cold with Noemi (Gus and Gwen were only 4 hours away) so I opted for resting a couple nights at a relatively cheap great family hotel in town at about $10 a night. The tent and clothes needed a break too...

The trek through El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua were extremely fast...

Made it all the way through El Salvador and half way through Honduras in one day. I stumbled across this Honduran truck stop where I joined a very macho group of truckers crashing the night relaxing to some tamales and ¨novellas¨ Mexican soap operas (seen in this photo). Great conversations and an imagined similarity with American truck stops back home but then i´ve never camped at an american truck stop...yet.

This was my tent next to a rig the following morning...quite a pair eh? Rigs, cars and trucks are all very gracious drivers down here...often allowing room for passing, especially bikes.

I have become quite accustomed to the border crossings ignoring the ¨tramitadores¨ or border assistants who manage the crossing documents and process for money or rather an undetermined tip. While I am sure the tip is worth the trouble, both being on a budget and wanting to learn the process has prevented me from succumbing to the mob that attacks the bike at every border. Border crossings are not simple especially with vehicle permits and these countries let you work for the priviledge to enter and exit. For the most part it has averaged an hour plus at every border to go from office to office. In all honesty it is not that bad and most customs persons are very nice if only following non sensical bureaucratic processes.

This photo is taken between one of the border crossings. Not that much to it...in fact one could likely cross without going through the process if they really wanted to or accidentally missed it...not too mention the bribes that are oft mentioned but never experienced by myself. The police checks along the highways are also more polite and interested glances at the bike. No trouble of this sort at all.

Since I haven´t been able to do much of the sites here are a couple interesting photos of situations that have made me smile along the road.

I came across many vehicles loaded like this...much like the days back in TZA. I may be moving similarly out of the MS Delta in the near future when i return to the states...

Anyway, I made it to San Jose where I met up with Gus and family... joined them for a trek to the pacific side of the country at Manuel Antonio... where tourism and expat retirement communities are in major development.

It´s also the site of a national park where Gus and I treked off the beaten trail, away from tourists

up a simple waterfall and creek

to check out some capuchin monkeys... one in particular that was extremely friendly and approached rather close most likely adjusted to tourists or wanting to steal my camera. Seen behind me in this photo and video...
The park borders the ocean which we couldn´t resist... I´m the small speck in the water...a great restorative for my bike wounds. Again, I´m sorry for those back home braving winter.

We ended the trip with some great local coffee and cake suggested by Gwen´s Uncle who toured us around the area and mother (Gwen´s Grandmother).

We also stopped a couple times for fruit and treats along the highway... sorry for those back home...and this isn´t even the vast variety that comes in season.

Gus getting some personal education from the wife on eating some local varities.

That´s about it right now... I´m still writing my goals and hope to enjoy my birthday climbing a mountain or along the carribean... I´ll check in more often...planning to stay here in CR a bit and find some spanish courses...first goal and priority is to be able to converse.

San Cristobal, Guatemala

2009-01-08T07:03:00.000-08:00

I don´t think lonely planet or footprint made a guide for guatemala in a day. 2 weeks in Mexico and one day across Guatemala. I´ve made the executive decision to head through central america and visit it more thoroughly on the way back...the tropics are always warm. Tierrra del Fuego not so much.

Sorry to all of my Guatemala Peace Corps friends...

The few snapshots i did take were off the bike. I crossed over into Guatemala with ease...made it as far as huehuetenango and dark forced me to stop at a restaurant. The family owned business was very courteous to my request to camp on their premises for the night...great food and guatemalan beer ¨Gallo¨ I awoke to discover fortuitously that it was also the site of a motocross rally park.

Guatemala is one big mountain to be blunt... never rode as many corners in my life or popped my ears so much. I´m following the panamerica highway which is at best like the best MS Delta Highway...well maybe not even that good. They are working on it but the repair parts approach one quickly...another good thing about riding the bike.

This is one panaromic view off the road at a 'mirador' look out point. these three go side by side. Guatemala city was hell...spent more time trying to figure out the streets. Not too mention folks were misunderstanding my request for the 'frontera' border San Cristobal with that of a Boulevard San Cristobol there in the city. Some guy took pity on me and escorted me to the right place... truly gracious.

I made it to just 15K of the El Salvador border around dark and decided to again look for a camp site...people referred me to this local 24 hour gas station pictured (this morning before leaving). The owner 'Wellington' was very open to me camping on the premises and spoke broken english very generously to my broken spanish.

I reallize later not a good idea for great sleep at a 24 hour gas station...major trucks late at night and all. This truck is full of vacas being transported from one pasture to another. I was able to practice out the spanish and learn some insights into the gasolinera business of Guatemala. The attendants were very accomodating to my learning need. They shared with me they make about $7 a day...and actually cross over from El Salvador to work here because it´s a little better pay... a little. Apparently the gas is cheaper in El Salvador (less taxes). Thus end the short sociological sharing for today.

Trying to make it across El Salvador today as well on the fast track to Costa Rica where I´ll hopefully rendezvous with friends.

This cemetary photo was taken on the ride this morning to the border. I can only imagine if we adorned our cemetaries in Wisconsin or Mississippi this way.

San Cristobal de la Casa, Mexico

2009-01-06T09:08:00.000-08:00

Today I´m heading to Guatemala, Mexico crossing at the Mesilla entry. It is amazing to me that i have managed to accomplish my new years goals for last year with this trip and that I have already traversed across mexico in little over two weeks time. One country down, a lot more to go.

The new year and the zapatista conference are reminders to me that while somewhat random and spontaneous this trip may be....I must take advantage of the ride besides the tourist sites. There is always something of substance required of us in this world to better ourselves, one another and the earth. No matter how small, it must demand intentionality.

Aside from this blog, which i have to this point feared to post too much information, I am writing my own motorcycle diaries which I ponder on subject matter close to my sociological heart and lens. Many of you have recently been given this blogsite and to you I would like to pledge to delve deeper and write more on the socio-political atmosphere of my travels.

I´ve met a few interesting people at the hostel that I have spent simply two nights at. A german woman, whom informed me of the zapatista conference and allowed me to join her have prompted refreshing conversations from the traditional tourist talk. She has been an inspiration to be more deliberate with my travels. A German gentleman (unrelated to one another) is working on his dissertation on indigenous peoples rights collecting research for a month before returning home. He also inspired and reminded me that I must apply the sociological research tools that have been imparted me from my graduate professors at Delta State University (a Masters degree which I have just completed, yeah). Information collection to this point has been on matters of the bike (gas, mileage, etc...) and budgetting expenses.

The Zapatista conference itself was overwhelming, perhaps majority tourist (like myself) than activist but this is unfounded. The spanish as predicted was over my head and yet again another reminder that i must take a spanish course soon somewhere. My spanish is returning but my sentences are embarrasing to say the least. Correct grammar will go a long way.

Despite the language barrier, the surroundings sufficiently shared the purpose, emotion, and need for continued education regarding the rights of indigenous peoples. While there, I picked up a simple yet powerful Zapatista journal calendar that offers historical snippets of social injustices every day and in spanish that will further educate me.

It is my goal before my birthday (Jan 14th) to use this calendar to establish some additional foci for this trip aside from the tourist destinations. I would like to force myself into more uncomfortable situations that stretches my understanding of the world. A peculiar value and perhaps misguided but never-the-less a form of self-empowerment i have strived for. This trips initial intention was partially to jar myself of a life in the Mississippi Delta that had perhaps become complacent and to experience international waters once again. With one country (Mexico) about to be behind me, this adventurous desire I recognize is not enough.

I have not yet resorted to my Servas resources ( http://usservas.org/) in gratitude to my friend Paul who turned me onto this organization or WWOOF (http://www.wwoof.org/) in gratitude to my friend Gus. The holidays have sort of prevented these options to this point. It is also my intention to visit Heifer International ¨Americas¨ country programs throughout central and south america who are in many ways advanced in matters of food sovereignty to that of the U.S. and Mississippi Delta where I worked for the past 8 years.

To inform the blog viewers...there is no major timeframe on this trip (other than wanting to return to Robyn) I am trying to push for Tierra del Fuego before winter hits there. Whether down or up, I plan to hit most if not all the countries and benefit from the aforementioned resources (Servas, WOOF, Heifer International). It is my desire to remain on the road for at least six months... reasoning...there are times despite the lust for adventure that homesickness hits and it is easy to remember the comfortability of a U.S. quality of life and want to return. Thus the six months at least. Their is also the need for spanish courses which will require at least a couple weeks somewhere if not more. Plans are for Costa Rica on this and perhaps my first WWOOF farm. Hopes are to get there before my birthday but may be unrealistic.

So, i must end this blog and get on the road. No flare of a lot of pictures today except a few of the Zapatista conference. I did not take many out of respect. jbs.

p.s. I will also be more deliberate with writing in plain language. Shorter sentences for start. Old habits hard to break.

San Cristobal de la Casa, Mexico

2009-01-05T09:43:00.000-08:00

I´m in San Cristobol de las Casas in the state of Chiapas about to head to a Zapatista Conference that is ending here today... has progressed from Mexico City since Christamas...lucky to discover it before it ends...not sure i´ll get much of the spanish but the spirit will be incredible plus the
international presenters.

Plan to spend a couple of nights here at a local hostel.. the previous night was spent camping just on the inskirts of the Chiapas state line. Thought i would be safe next to this broken down truck that was jacked up on bricks near a village off the highway.

Since it was Sunday I decided to take a nice leisure "not to be missed guidebook recommendation" ride up the Sumideru Canyon...

I might not be a warrior in the footprint guidebook sense (previous photo description) but couldn´t help snap a photo depicting the bad ass biker in me...you can laugh now...lo siento´madre. btw...I am wearing the helmet.

The kids reflect a different story... Many a people are interested in the bike and it makes for great conversation and pictures it appears... these children were just a few of the other tourists on a holiday drive.

The Canyon itself is amazing and can not fully be appreciated by camera.

At the top, I enjoyed a refreshing local drink called Tascalate...chalky but delicious.

The tascalate is a better depiction of local food sovereignty (for my heifer amigos) than my tortilla-hamwhich and chips lunch...Not my main staple on the road of course but a representation of the local groceries. Perhaps some local food assessments are in order for this trip. At least the exhaust pipe from the KLR warmed up the ham for me while riding.

It was then a cold sunset drive through the mountains to San Cristobal... the irony of the scenic panoramic sunset over Chiapas taken at a local trashpit.

Veracruz, Mexico

2009-01-03T08:04:00.000-08:00

Spent last night camping along lake catemaco arriving in town just before sunset. Came across a couple of other klr guys but lost one another in town...easy to do after a couple beers. They are also heading to Southa America and I will likely stumble across them again. In cliche form...it is amazing how small the world is or perhaps there are more folks taking this trip than i imagined. Catemaco is beautiful!

Catemaco is the site of a National park that peculiarly has some macaque monkeys introduced from Thailand... got some great footage of some birds...will have to post some of it...the sound is incredible.

Nido makes a comeback in my life this morning since peace corps...an essential for the biker without a refridgerator... however not socially conscious for the anti-nestle observers. Stopped off at a corner grocer in town to pick up some storable motor foods...trying to travel more economically. Im sure it will become more accomodating along the way. coffee has also become quite essential and easy, having equipped my walmart stainless steel mug with Robyn´s coffee filter before leaving, quite fortiutiously it fits perfectly...another picture for another time. Do not think ive yet to give up on local street food and so far so great. The food would require another blog entirely.

I managed to stay in veracruz for the new years hoping to get some city essentials before leaving the big city not too mention most everything was closed of course and the women at the hotel were great. I spent a few nights here.

Though they likely did not know of my experimental cooking in the room with uncle ben... left overs from cleveland mississippi cabinet... uncle ben must have been a couple years old at this point but i could not bare to throw it away.

And true to my word, I enjoyed the ocean with some cerveza on new years day reading up on my Clymer KLR manual... quite a sight for the Mexican tourists on holiday I am sure.

The day only made better for having called Robyn at midnight with a calling card. This globalized economy has some nice features.

Veracruz, Mexico

2008-12-31T08:47:00.000-08:00

Well no matter where in mexico it appears these miniature religious theaters are popular... while there are many adorned with the nativity in the cathedrals...I particularly appreciated this depiction of adam and eve. pg rated observing the fig leaves.

Veracruz is an hour plus south of Jalapa to the gulf coast plains...plenty warm even on the bike this time of year. Took a snap shot of these village flower vendors along the highway down to Veracruz... region of flowers indeed.

Arrived in the city late afternoon and enjoyed the lively new years celebration festivities in the plaza historico...very packed...will likely head a bit further south for some less craziness and cheaper cerveza.

Jalapa, Mexico

2008-12-30T10:32:00.000-08:00

Second post in as many days... might be spending more time in the internet cafe than the cultural sites. My first sociological insight about internet travel blogs. i made it to jalapa, mexico and on a more enjoyable non-toll highway through small villages. Not too mention saving some expenses. The tolls on the highway federales is high, running nearly five to ten dollars at places. It´s also more difficult to get at the klr ashtray for the dinero. inserted smiley face here...haven´t figured out the espanol keyboard for this feature yet...the @ sign is hard enough.

This blog entry is an introduction to the klr and with great appreciation for arthur offering me to use his on the trip, recognizing that it may not be seen again. another smiley face.

I´ll hopefully be setting up some additional features such as mapping to share the route i´m taking with pictures but one thing at a time.

The klr is my one outfit camping rig. The first picture taken right before leaving robyn´s shows that i´ve added a couple of mounting boxes to the back of the bike and strapped/rigged a couple of cheap walmart backpacks (10 dol) to the gas tank. i attached a larger after model gas 6.6gal gas tank which has given me 300 miles before filling. I´ve yet to run out of gas. i´ve also strapped-bungee cord my osprey backpack in a large duffel bag across the back for easy access. It makes for a nice off road camping or parking in some cheap hotels as seen in these pics.

This is a picture of mt orizaba off the parque juarez in Jalapa centro which overlooks the city. It is the capital of Veracruz which is where i´m heading and hopefully enjoying some beach time for the new years. Prospero Año Nuevo to all!

Puebla, Mexico

2008-12-29T09:48:00.000-08:00

Alright...this blog has started. Been on the road for over a week now leaving the MS Delta two days after Robyn left for xmas... Spent christmas with mi madre in guanajato surprising her by riding into town on a kawasak klr650 dual sports bike. More to come on the bike...

This first post, like my thoughts, are for Robyn. The spanish is coming back but i picked this phrase book up at turnrow in greenwood. These phrases are the first i am learning and laughing at...